I was privileged and fortunate to visit Chile at the end of February 2016 to see at first hand the natural topography that is perfect for making top quality wines. Chile is dominated by the Andes Mountains and has the benefit of cooling coastal mists rolling in from the Pacific Ocean to premium vineyard areas like Casablanca Valley. The Andes protect the vineyards from insects and pests and from the usual vine growing problems like frost and mildew. The soil or terroir here is also very important – mainly sand and gravel that drains well and keeps out the dreaded phylloxera aphid that attacks the vine roots.
In the early 1990’s, a group of Masters of Wine had visited Chile and the key wine growing areas and had returned to Europe waxing lyrical about the wonderful ripe grapes they had seen at harvest. This was only the beginning of Chile becoming one of the major quality wine-producing countries in the world.
Fast forward 25 years and all of us will probably have experienced well made, good value single varietal entry level wines from the Central Valley region but Chile is now much, much more than that!
Many young winemakers have taken the traditional winemaking skills of their forebears and added innovation in the vineyards and winery and planted new emerging grape varieties. The matching of terroir in certain areas to specific grapes has added a new dimension and quality level to Chilean wines in areas like Casablanca and Colchagua.
Click here to view our Chilean range.
They say that big can’t be beautiful in the world of wine, well I have just visited the exception in Castello Banfi situated in the heart of Montalcino in Southern Tuscany.
Banfi were the pioneers of cloning the Sangiovese grape into Brunello in 1983 and putting Italy’s most expensive wine, Brunello di Montalcino firmly on the world wine map.
Head of the Company and CEO is American-Italian Cristina Mariana-May who I had previously had the pleasure to meet at a special Banfi Masterclass invitation at The Dorchester Hotel, London in March 2019. She is a dynamic, charismatic lady who won the accolade as "Businesswoman of the Year” in 2018 and her efforts behind the worldwide campaign for vineyard sustainability and quality in the eco system are reflected in the wines being produced by her Company.
On visiting the property, I can see the enormous capital investment the Mariana family have made over the last 40 years. Castello Poggio alle Mura – the stunning castle and ancestral home – was all but destroyed in World War II. This has now been painstakingly restored to its former glory and now houses an antique glass museum, Balsameria, Enoteca, Taverna and Il Borgo - 15 stunning bedroom suites way above 5 star quality!
The winemaking reflects the quality in everything they do. This 'pursuit of excellence' starts in the vineyard – poor soil equals good vine growing conditions and Banfi have the largest estate in Italy of around 3,000 hectares. The soil is rich in clay, calcium and complex minerality. The bone and eventual fossil remains of a giant pre-historic 5 million year old whale has recently been discovered here, indicating that this land was at that time entirely under the sea. The soil is therefore still well irrigated and the many fossils now found give it and therefore the vine an incredible and unique complexity and dimension.
Banfi’s winemaking capabilities are now on an industrial scale however, the care taken for these valuable grapes is profound. Hand selection of the very best grapes go into the best Brunello and Super Tuscan’s. The original winery was built in the 1980’s as a “ state of the art “ building. It has been updated and improved with most recently the “ first of its kind ” fermenting vats combining temperature controlled stainless steel with natural oxygenation and further complexity and deep character in the resultant wine imparted by oak staves.
Banfi’s wines are unfiltered, bottled under nitrogen, reducing sulphites and histamines resulting in purer, more natural wines.
We are made to feel so welcome at Riserva di Fizzano. Our return visit to this magical place set as a jewel in the Tuscan hills also confirmed the perfect growing season and the likelihood of a bumper harvest for the 2019 vintage with picking already under way. It has been a hot summer with little rainfall other than the odd thunderstorm. The Sangiovese crop looks to be outstanding in both fruit yield and quantity.
Geogeta Perhald, a Romanian by birth but naturalised Italian is our charming master of PR and knowledge (and 6 languages) and a stalwart of RDM for over 20 years.
We taste Campo Maccione Vermentino from Marema - RDM’s coastal vineyards - lovely and delicate fruit appeal with layers of opulent characteristics.
Followed by Familia Zingarelli collaborations- Macehialupa Greco di Tufo being the most impressive white showing fresh, generous pear drop aftertaste. PietraPura from Puglia - beautifully balanced and fruit driven Primitivo and Negramaro were very enjoyable reds.
We finish with RDM classic reds - Chianti Riserva displaying pronounced Sangiovese character - Chianti Classico - their flagship wine full of ripe fruit and soft smooth tannins and Riserva di Fizzano - 95% Sangiovese 5% Merlot- wonderfully balanced fruit, tannins and good length in the 2013.
Lunch at Altroche - RDM’s newest investment opened in March 2019. The professional presentation of the food and wines is outstanding- the freshness of the salad and traditional Tuscan meats and cheeses exhilarating.
We are joined by Sergio Zingarelli- owner and founder. Sergio’s father Italo established the original vineyards in 1973. Sergio hasn't changed since I first met him in 2008. He is one of those special people you meet in life. He combines a shy charm with a boundless energy and vision to improve the wines and wine making in his beloved Tuscany. Just passed his 60th birthday now he is still driven and supported by his wife Daniella and daughter Julia and son Andrea. Their investment in new French oak barrels and Italian made stainless steel vessels is staggering! New 25hl barrels for ageing Riserva di Fizzano and smaller fermenting vats of 70hl giving more complexity and fruit concentration - the investment generated from royalties from the original Italian spaghetti westerns made by his father in the late 60s and 70s. Posters of the movies of this era adorn the huge 100hl fermenting vats of their pride and joy wine - Chianti Classico.
I hear about the latest research going on in the vineyards and helping their vines prosper. A tiny good insect called ANAGYRUS are bought by RDM in there thousands and released into the vineyards when conditions are perfect for them to prosper. These insects only have a 10 day lifespan and they leave their lavi on the vine leaves that grow and eat the harmful bugs from the inside that attack the plants. This practice reduces the need for spraying and de-stresses the vine giving it the opportunity to produce healthier grapes.
Our stay is at Relais Riserva Fizzano, the magnificent development for guests and wine lovers from all over the world to relax. Developed out of a medieval village, the accommodation has 22 beautifully appointed rooms, an a la carte restaurant and swimming pool in the heart of Castellina in Chianti a gem in the hills of central Tuscany just 17km north of Siena.
